When We Do Not Exist

It would help if we would rely more on our reason than our wishes.
It would help if we recognized fantasy for what it is.
It would help if we recognized our failings and owned up to our flaws.
It would help if we listened to our deepest, most primitive emotions and let them flow.
It would help if we accepted inadequacies, leaving excuses in the dust where they belong.

It’s okay to feel utter hopelessness, because we’ve earned that emotion.
It’s okay to weep openly at our lost innocence, knowing it’s gone forever.
It’s okay to hate who we’ve become, because we’ve become who we’ve been taught to hate.
It’s okay to sharpen the scalpel and find the softest spot on which to test its edge.
It’s okay to recognize we’ve squandered our chances to capture our own salvation.

There is no god but the one we created in our own minds,
no god but the illusion we hoped would lead us from the abyss from which
there is no escape, now that we know what we’ve created.

Help doesn’t exist where help wasn’t wanted.
God doesn’t exist when god is but who we are,
when we know we are not, nor will ever be, god.

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Losing Hope

I’m looking out the big windows in my “tree house room” into a sky washed in muted blue and grey and white clouds. Huge limbs block pieces of the sky. Leaves that will, a few months hence, fall as brown and orange litter, retain their deep green hues for now. I think any other day like today would give me reason to celebrate life. Any other day would  offer joy as a byproduct of being who and where I am. But today is bleak. I am thinking this morning about the murder of five police officers in Dallas and the recent senseless killing of two more black men by police officers who, it seems to me, reacted in fear to the circumstances that confronted them. Today is bleak because I do not see an end to this. This country needs a calm, resourceful leader to guide us out of the abyss. That leader is most certainly not Donald Trump. And it’s not Hillary Clinton, either. It’s not Bernie Sanders or Paul Ryan or any of the other politicians whose egos stoke the fires that burn  the heart and soul of America to ashes. I don’t know who that much-needed leader is, but I know who it’s not. Maybe it would have been John Fitzgerald Kennedy or Martin Luther King or the Dali Lama. But they are not leading us. No one is. We are packs of savages with no one to shepherd us in to the caves in which we belong. I’ve not felt the hopelessness I feel this morning since I was in college, the first fall semester when I thought the only solution to resolve the pain was to die. I know that’s no solution; the world would go on imploding on itself without me. But the utter hopelessness I feel at this very moment is palpable; it courses through my veins as if it were thick grey concrete, hardening with each passing second.

Posted in Just Thinking | 1 Comment

Musings on the Day After the Fourth

Last night, I sat on my deck watching explosions of fireworks in the deep distance and hearing the faint percussive thuds of the remote blasts. The air was hot and muggy, defining July in central Arkansas (and much of my home state of Texas). I grilled hot dogs for dinner, playing homage to American tradition, but my post-dinner libation of choice was a gin and tonic; homage to my British ancestry.

As I sat pondering American Independence Day and feeling appreciation for the good fortune of being born in this country, images from my computer screen appeared in my mind’s eye. The images, from the attacks on Dhaka and Baghdad, reminded me that battles arising from hatred and greed and lust for power are just as horrific as battles for freedom. But no moral justification exists for the former. The fight for freedom, though, that’s steeped in morality. Or is it?

I suppose the answer depends on the costs freedom fighters and their beneficiaries are wiling to pay for their successes. When my British forebears and their compatriots came to this continent, economic and political freedoms drove their emigration from their homeland. Their fight for independence, which gave us our own, seems to us now as just and moral. But what of their expansive appetites for more? More land, more control over indigenous peoples…just more. That voracious appetite and its genetic imprint that morphed into an imperialist move westward and then, later, globally, got us where we are today.  So, on the one hand, we owe our society’s standing in the world and our standard of living to our ancestors’ fight for freedom. On the other, we owe our largess to our ancestors’, and our own, inclinations toward imperialism and their/our disregard for the rights of peoples who were here before us.

Lest anyone who happens upon this post think I am a bleeding-heart liberal who’s ashamed of being an American, let me correct that impression. I am a bleeding-heart liberal who’s most definitely proud to be an American, but one who believes our tendency to beat our chests and the drums of nationalism ought to be restrained. I am a bleeding-heart liberal who thinks we ought to acknowledge the moral failings that got us where we are today. I am a bleeding-heart liberal who thinks we should temper our desires for “more” with a pledge to avoid making the same moral mistakes our forebears made.

Nationalism or chauvinism or whatever you choose to call blind, unquestioning patriotism is a disease of the intellect. It cripples rational thought and brews intolerance and bigotry and xenophobia. Or is it the other way around? Does a crippled intellect give rise to the aforementioned ills? I do not have the answer, but I suspect a symbiotic relationship exists between zealotry of any stripe and underdeveloped intellectual capacity. Yet as I give thought to what might “fix” the problem of blind patriotism and its cousins, I get back to inferior intellect as their breeding ground. If that’s the case, then, education might be the answer; unless, of course, intellectual dwarfism cannot be cured by exposure to facts or critical thinking.

Contemplating the ugliness I see on the world stage cements my perception that bigotry is and fanaticism are not just American phenomena. The disease is not geo-specific; it resides wherever humans go. I see-saw between hope and pride in the best I see in American and, indeed, global society and despair in what I see as an intractable element of humanity. Looking back at literature over the centuries, I see that same dichotomy between optimism and despondency. So, my emotional conflict is by no means new, nor mine alone. But I just wish there were a cure for the ignorance that seems to serve as a petri dish for pestilent strains of misunderstanding.

There I go again, wishing. That, too, is a disease; borne by ineffectual or non-existent efforts to bring about change.

Posted in Depression, Frustration, Independence Day, Philosophy, Politics, Rant | 2 Comments

Practical Sorcery

Meniscus Plevens rolled his eyes. His sister, Cleopatricia, shot a dark, menacing glance in his direction, a glare hot enough to melt the bacon-grease-saturated smile off his face. Every time she started to tell the story about her conversation with President Roosevelt, Meniscus rolled his eyes in disbelief that she was willing to embarrass herself by telling such a preposterous tale and insisting it was factual. Still, each time the coals in her eyes tamed his overt disdain.

“Seriously, it was four years ago and I was like seventeen years old. I was alone in the shop, mopping up ice cream melts from a rush of customers a little while earlier, when he came in. When I looked up and saw him, my jaw dropped. It was FDR! In the flesh! We’d just studied about his presidency in my history class, so I knew exactly what he looked like. It was so weird; he was like a black and white photo, but in 3-D. And he just started talking to me.”

Meniscus swallowed the last piece of limp bacon, wiped his slippery face with his sleeve, and glanced at Dahlia, Cleopatricia’s roommate. Dahlia’s face betrayed nothing about what she thought of the story; she sat stone-faced as Cleopatricia continued.

“He said he just wanted me to understand why he always insisted on hiding his wheelchair from public view.  But, next, he started speaking in gibberish for a minute. And, then, he smiled and put a big cigar in his mouth and said, ‘Do you understand what I’m saying, sweetheart?’ And he turned and walked out the door. Yeah, I said he walked. He didn’t need a wheelchair. It was all a stunt.”

Meniscus watched Dahlia’s mouth twitch slightly. But her eyes remained fixed and vacant, revealing nothing of what she might be thinking until she blurted, “My god, Cleo, you’re about as delusional as anyone I’ve ever met. And I’ve met some crazies in my time.”

 

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Brexit

My fears about the Brexit vote came to fruition when, in the middle of the night last night, I woke up and checked the news. I don’t pretend to understand the full breadth of the vote’s ramifications on the world economy, but I suspect they will be significant. I sincerely believe the rationale for the decision, at least for many voters, wasn’t economic sovereignty they claim. Instead, I think their decision to vote to leave the European Union was based on their xenophobic fears about living under EU immigration policies. The success of the LEAVE supporters has already given far-right factions in France and other places around Europe the fuel they need to fan the flames in their own countries. I wonder now whether the EU can survive for the long haul? And I wonder whether the success of the anti-immigrant factions in Britain will add fuel to the fire in the U.S., leading to the horror of a Trump presidency? If I were a praying man, I’d pray for divine intervention to ensure that Trump never gets near the White House.

Posted in Politics | 2 Comments

Wisdom in Nonsense?

Last night, during a break from watching the CNN town hall with the Libertarian candidates for President and Vice President, I wrote a bizarre post on Facebook, expecting it to generate a flood of comments questioning my sanity. Sadly, only one person made a comment, suggesting the post was alcohol-induced. It wasn’t, but I guess I can see why the respondent might have thought so. Here’s the post:

I do not own horses, nor do I wish to sell children. These matters may seem miles apart, but if you look carefully, they barely describe distances in kilometers in a universe in which apostasy trumps faith an inch at a time.

And there you have it. A comment so utterly absurd, yet so full of truth, that no response can possibly do it justice.

Posted in Just Thinking | 2 Comments

Missing Pieces

Other people remember their seventeenth and eighteenth and nineteenth birthdays as milestones, landmarks of adventure to be remembered longingly as they glide through their senior years. Not I. Even when prompted by hearing stories of someone else’s ‘coming of age,’ I don’t remember.

I don’t recall being part of a crowd, one of a dozen young people making love on the beach, against a backdrop of ice chests full of beer, absorbing the heat and scent of a huge driftwood campfire. Nor do I long to relive the experience of smoking my first joint in the company of a girl who willingly shared herself, her first time, with me. You can’t relive something that didn’t happen.

It’s not that such experiences have no appeal for me; it’s simply that as far as I know, they aren’t part of my early life repertoire. What little I remember about the time of my life when I should have been ‘coming of age’ is, by and large, dull and lifeless, lacking in most respects the excitement of youthful rebellion and blossoming adulthood.

When, recently, I watched a retrospective of the early 1970s on television, the open-mouthed kisses between eager strangers dancing in the streets seemed utterly foreign to me. The uninhibited mutual exploration of young bodies I saw on the screen did not take place where I lived, at least not in my presence. And I certainly was not party to it, though I do remember wishing for such things; my libido was, to the best of my knowledge, fairly typical.

I came of age in a time of personal repression and fragile self-esteem. I dared not hope to be part of the revolution I heard so much about. Sure, I had my share of flings involving young women, but they were not the unrestrained lust-fests I heard about (and hear about to this day) and so badly wanted. Mine were restrained lust-fests.

And then I grew up, at the speed of an excruciating crawl. Along the way, I required of myself that I forego exhilarating experiences in favor of a life better suited to someone unaccustomed to taking risks. In a nutshell, either I missed out on the rights of passage to which everyone else staked their claims or that mythical life-changing transition is, indeed, a myth.

An acquaintance, who’s writing a memoir, seems to have had an utterly different experience than did I. He writes of excitement and danger in exquisite detail. I do not even recall wishing for a more exciting life. I recall virtually nothing at all.

This absence of recollections is, at times, troubling. Did something horrific happen to me, something so terrible that, to cope, I erased a large swath of my life from memory? Hah! The years from birth to post-college no longer constitutes a “large swatch of my life,” do they? I should be content with recollections of my life after college. Or should I? Should any of us be content with recollections? Shouldn’t we focus, instead, on the here and now and what we can make of what’s left of our lives?

Before I launch into a philosophical argument about the value of memory versus experience, I should say that my memories of my early years have not simply evaporated. I remember incidents from my junior high and high school years, but I don’t recall the context. I remember my infatuation with my high school biology teacher, Cookie Jones. I recall drinking beer with friends and then hanging my head out the back window of a station wagon, throwing up on cars following close behind. I remember my fight with Mark Westerman, whose blow to my lower lip resulted in a flood of blood soaking my shirt. For some reason, my one and only junior high date with Margaret Embry, when I took her to see Fantastic Voyage, remains with me. But outside these snapshots, and several others, I don’t have a complete picture of my youth. And before junior high and high school? Almost nothing. Occasionally, my mind’s eye will reveal a flash of experience, but not the context. From my years at Montclair Elementary, I remember making fun of, and then befriending, a little boy whose skin was blue, the result of some sort of heart condition, I think. And I recall being a member of the Safety Patrol, a group of students who served as crossing guards at crosswalks near the school; we carried long bamboo poles with a yellow flag attached to one end and held the poles across the street to stop cars while students crossed the street as they walked to school. I wonder whether that aspect of my childhood continues in schools today?

But back to the philosophical discussion. What value do memories have? Surely, they serve as reminders of things we’ve learned, things that are valuable as we live our lives day to day; I recall being burned when I touched a hot stove, the recollection of which serves a useful purpose today. But otherwise, what purpose do memories serve, really? Does it matter than I do not recall much of my youth? I mean, I might as well not have experienced my life from age five to twenty, save a few snippets that remain with me today. Does it matter? I honestly cannot say. Only people whose memories are far more complete than mine might answer, or try to answer, that question.

Judging from the number of times I’ve thought about, and written about, the paucity of memories from my youth, I have to say I’m bothered by it. But I suppose there’s no solution; if I haven’t been able to piece together my youth after sixty-two years, I doubt I’ll be able to do it during the next sixty-two years. Yet, maybe I’ll try to capture those fleeting moments of memory when they flash across my mind by writing them down. Over time, perhaps I can stitch those snippets together chronologically in some fashion to reconstruct my early years> Then I might decide it was a worthwhile endeavor, or that it was not.

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Ill and Alone

My friend, Myra, wound up in a Lexington, Kentucky hospital emergency room yesterday. I don’t know just what led her there, aside from intense pain. I spoke with her last night from her hospital bed (the hospital admitted her) after learning of her mishap from her daughter’s Facebook posting; her daughter gave me a phone number where I could reach her. Myra assured me she was doing much better, having adapted nicely to pain medications; friends were on the way to drive her and her car home, presumably today.

Finding oneself hospitalized in a strange place with no friends or family close by can be terrifying; I can attest to that from experience. My first such experience was in Toledo, Ohio, where I was attending a business meeting. I experienced intense intestinal pain, courtesy of Crohn’s disease; it was so intense that I asked to be taken to the hospital. The doctors were confident acute appendicitis caused the pain, so they took me to the operating room to remove my appendix; instead, they found and removed several feet of badly damaged intestines. They removed the appendix, as well. When I awoke, my wife was at my bedside; she had flown to Toledo from Chicago to be there for me.  Had I awoken to only nurses and doctors, I am sure the experience would have been even more terrifying. Other people who attended the meeting visited me, but it wasn’t like having friends or family; I appreciated their presence, of course, but having someone at one’s side, someone with whom one has an emotional attachment, is healing.

A similar situation arose several years later when I flew to Vienna to attend a meeting for another organization. Again, the intense pain caused by Crohn’s disease prompted me to ask the hotel to have a taxi take me to a hospital. I did call for a taxi, though, until I had first called my wife to tell her that I was ill and asked her to call my gastroenterologist to ask him what to do; naturally, he told her I should immediately go a hospital emergency room. That experience was a bit odd, in that the taxi driver first took me to a hospital that turned me away because it accepted only people who were injured, not people who were ill; the second hospital took me in. Fortunately, I did not have to undergo surgery, but I was kept in the hospital for a few days before being allowed to leave. I did not return to the meeting but, instead, went to the airport. My seat on the plane home was not assured until I spoke to the pilot; he would not allow me to take a seat until he spoke to me and felt confident I was well enough to travel. During my hospital stay, the frequent presence of a representative of the Vienna convention bureau, who was hosting the meeting I was to attend, comforted me. He also kept in close contact with my wife.

There was at least one other time when I fell ill while traveling (possibly more, but memory begins to blur at my advanced age). I believe I was in Las Vegas, but it might have been Palm Springs, when late one evening I again experienced the intense pain of Crohn’s. I was able to call a taxi myself and asked the driver to take me to the hospital. I spent several hours in the emergency room, during which time the pain eased dramatically. Just before dawn, I was allowed to leave. As the taxi dropped me off at the front of the hotel, the chief volunteer leader of the association I managed at the time walked out the front door on his way to take a walk; we had an interesting conversation as I explained that, no, I had not been out on a “night on the town.”

I suspect I could, if I challenged myself to do it, write a longer, more intriguing story of my experiences traveling ill and alone. But for now, I hope Myra will take time to write of her experiences while they are fresh and clear. I wish I had written about mine while they were new and I could recall more of the detail that surrounded my experiences. Wishes. More wishes. Damn it. Stop with the wishing.

Posted in Health, Travel | 1 Comment

Post-Solstice Apothegm

“We all make mistakes.” That phrase acknowledges error with the gift of forgiveness. But it provides only a single absolution of transgression; it is not a coupon valid for repeat offenses.

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Wishing as a Lifestyle

Yet again, I arose far earlier than I intended this morning, getting out of bed about 3:30. A couple of cups of coffee and too much web-surfing later, I sit at my computer wondering why. Not just why I woke up early. Why, in a more general sense?

Some of my internet meanderings this morning took me back to the town of Viroqua, Wisconsin, a place I stumbled on several weeks ago while I was in search of a setting for a story.  I began writing it but, to date, haven’t finished the tale. I doubt I will; I’d have to spend time in Viroqua and neighboring Soldiers Grove to write the story properly and I don’t see myself taking up residence in either place in the near term, though I will be in Wisconsin soon (but not close enough to either place to warrant a detour).

When I stumbled onto Viroqua a few weeks ago, I fell in love with the place. Or, I should say, I fell in love with the idea of the place as it then existed in my head. I fell in love with its large and successful food co-op. The small-town sense of place I saw in my mind’s eye captivated me. I pictured a tight-knit community of artists and farmers and progressive thinkers who would welcome outsiders willing to leave their biases and hard-edged skepticism about the goodness of human nature at the town limits. In short, I invested in a fantasy utterly unrelated to any real, hard data I had about the town; I wanted Viroqua to be something it’s probably not. This morning’s treks through the streets of the town using Google street view revealed a town that could be Anywhere USA: Pizza Hut, Wal-Mart, Tractor Supply, Walgreen’s, the Viroqua Food Cooperative (information about which helped propel my fantasy about the town), and a large sign proclaiming Republican Headquarters. The last bit, suggesting not progressivism but intolerance (yes, I realize I’m biased), made me delve a little deeper into the town.

I learned that one of the founders of the Share Our Wealth society, Gerald K. Smith, hailed from Viroqua. He moved to Louisiana, where he met Huey Long and the two of them advocated for a new social and political contract (Share Our Wealth, aka Share the Wealth) that seems, to me, to have been rooted in populism with socialist underpinnings. According to a website dedicated to Huey Long, the key planks of the Share The Wealth platform included:

  • Limit annual income to one million dollars each (about $12 million today)
  • Cap personal fortunes at $50 million each — equivalent to about $600 million today (later reduced to $5 – $8 million, or $60 – $96 million today)
  • Limit inheritances to five million dollars each (about $60 million today)
  • Guarantee every family an annual income of $2,000 (or one-third the national average)
  • Free college education and vocational training
  • Old-age pensions for all persons over 60
  • Veterans benefits and healthcare
  • A 30 hour work week
  • A four week vacation for every worker
  • Greater regulation of commodity production to stabilize prices

After Long’s assassination, Gerald Smith took over the project and ran it into the ground. Smith was a miserable bastard, it seems, an advocate of white supremacy and a demagogue of the highest order.  He advocated for the release of Nazi war criminals and was publisher of The Cross and the Flag, a monstrous rag that claimed the six million Jews killed by the Nazis had actually not been killed but, instead, had immigrated to the United States.  I found intriguing that Smith, after a failed right-wing political career, moved to Eureka Springs, Arkansas, where he raised money to build the Christ of the Ozarks statue, which was to be a centerpiece of a religious theme park that never materialized.

So, my brief trip through a magical kingdom built in my head, populated by people I would like and admire, disappeared in a burst of hissing, foul-smelling steam expelled by people whose very existence makes me question the existence of “good.” But that’s true about almost everywhere I go. And it’s true about nearly everyone I meet; I want everyone to be that magical human who gives me reason to think the ugliness all around us is a tiny and temporary blip in history, soon to be relegated to memory and replaced by light. Alas, it doesn’t happen. That having been said, I do encounter many people I consider good, decent, kind, exceptional people; a lot of them. Just not enough. Notwithstanding that downer of an attitude, I’ll go on pursuing my dreams (if I can identify just what they are) and continue my lifestyle of wishing for a world that doesn’t exist, never did, and never will.

 

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I Borrow

I borrow from what I read, what I hear, and from what I previously wrote about the world around me. I borrow ideas, opinions, and emotions. Hell, I borrow sensations of pleasure and pain from people who, intentionally or not, share them with me through their words or their eyes or the way they flinch at memory triggers they do not realize I can see.

The shivers up your spine are not always entirely yours; I might share them with you. And I might share the throbbing pain you feel in your head or your foot or the pulsing pleasure you feel in places you don’t describe in mixed company.

You see, I can learn about the world from my own writing and from the way I imagine you interact with the world around you. I borrow from my own words, describing experiences I cannot fully process until I read about them later. I analyze what I wrote, using the lens of experience and clarity unavailable in the heat of the moment to temper what I think I felt. Time and reflection yield truths unavailable at the instant of experience. The pain of touching a burning ember differs at the moment of the experience from a recollection an hour later. The ecstasy of orgasm in the moment may pale in comparison to the reminiscence, or vice versa. Time and the manner in which one borrows from his memory twists reality into pretzels; sometimes they can be unwound into long, straight strands of dough, but usually they shatter into crumbs during the attempt.

I have come to realize I am a person unlike the vast majority of people with whom I interact. I borrow them to define my experience; I borrow them to quantify and qualify my value in relation to the ground on which I walk. They do not do the same; well, maybe some do, but only rarely. The few who do are among a small and unpleasant breed that doesn’t fit, at least not here. We’re borrowing a place to be, hoping to stumble upon that magical propellant that will thrust us toward the place where being will better match who we are. How will we know? I do not know. I can only imagine the fit will be apparent. It will be apparent because we will no longer need to borrow but, instead, will be benefactors to those who need to borrow.

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Early Morning Ruminations on the Return from France

How charming, my belief that I had—with virtually no effort—overcome the jet lag of returning home from France. I thought getting up at 6:00 a.m. Saturday, staying awake for the entire series of flights from Marseille to Little Rock, and going to bed at around 9:00 p.m. on Saturday evening (the equivalent of 4:00 a.m. Sunday in France, so I was awake for twenty-two hours straight) would deftly handle jet lag. I was fine all day Sunday. I went to bed Sunday evening, a little early. And then I woke up before 3:00 a.m. Wide awake. My quaint naïveté that I had conquered jet lag surprised me this morning when I found myself wanting to go back to sleep, but knowing I could not.

And, so, instead I washed the few dishes in need of washing, and began the process of washing clothes from the trip. Shirts and snazzy, colorful socks are in the washer now. Jeans will follow when the first load is done. And then underwear. Ah, the joys of living in clothes follow us wherever we go; methinks the benefits of nudism extend beyond freedom from wearing constricting clothing. Just think how much time one might save in a lifetime if freed from the chores of washing clothes; think of how many lives doctors might have saved, had instead of washing clothes, they had practiced their medical arts. There, I did it; I succeeded in making the argument that nudism can save lives and, conversely, that wearing clothes can lead to death.

I drove a rented car for the last six full days we were in France. I had reserved a Peugot 308, but when I went to pick it up, the reservation agent at Sixt Rent a Car knew I had a reservation, but did not know much beyond that; even though I previously had completed online forms with my driver’s licence, credit card information, passport number, etc., she knew only my name and that I had reserved a car. She had set aside a Fiat 500L, which ostensibly will seat five and hold three bags, just as the Peugot was supposed to do; but I suggested the Fiat 500L would not be suitable. Also, because it did not have GPS (another thing I’d listed as a requirement with my online reservation), it would not do. After some shuffling, she lined me up with a 6-speed manual transmission Nissan Pulsar with a GPS. That would be fine, I said. And it was, save for my ineptitude in getting the GPS set up properly from the start. And my encounter with roundabouts. And my poor recollection of French road signs I’d studied before the trip. And my stress with all the aforementioned. After getting acquainted with the car, though, and driving through a few roundabouts, I was all right. I actually came to like driving the car…as long as we were on desolate country roads. When we hit heavy traffic, my stress level peaked. Yet we got through all six days and many kilometers, with visits to Nîmes, Avignon, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Banon, Cabrières-d’Avignon (home base), Coustellet, Gordes, etc., etc. Here’s a snapshot of a map, showing some of the places we visited during our stay in France (including before renting the car); obviously, we drove through a lot of this area.

Places_We_Visited

It’s now 4:40 a.m. and I must go attend to the washer and dryer. There’s so much to think about on the return from France. And so much to write about, if only I will. I think it’s time to kick myself in the butt and write some fiction, some travelogues, and a few opinion pieces. But, first, the clothes. And maybe breakfast. Coffee, of course, comes before all the above.

 

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Frolics in France

Yesterday, we all piled in two cars and drove to Gordes, a beautiful little village a short drive away. It was, as expected, packed with tourists. They had come for the stunning views of the valleys below and the quaint, curving streets one finds in such communities carved into to rocks of ancient limestone mountains. We walked around the village, one brother desperately searching for cigarettes while the rest of us looked for ice cream and baguettes (boulangers, it seems, close early on Monday or don’t open at all). We found baguettes and ice cream; my brother would have to search for a tabac store in another village before securing the stuff to assuage his addiction.

The rest of the group wanted to visit another beautiful mountainside village we had seen on our earlier tour, so Janine and I decided to strike out on our own for the village of Banon, where a marvelous bookstore, according to something Janine had read, awaited us. We drove the better part of an hour, reaching the village just after 2:30. Our first priority was to find lunch. Alas, the restaurant scene in Banon, like the rest of the little piece of Provence we have seen so far, closes around 2:30. So, we entered a little bar nearby, hoping for lunch. As we looked at the menu board, the bar-maid explained in French that we somehow understood that only two of the dozen menu items remained available: quiche Provençal and croc Monsieur. We ordered them. They were abysmal fast food snacks that our bar maid took out of their plastic wrap containers and heated in a microwave. Fortunately, the two Schweppe’s Indian tonic waters we ordered were delicious and washed away the nastiness of horrid French fast bar food. Following lunch, Janine followed the sign to the toilette, only to find the bar had facilities only for women; that was fine for her, but it left me wondering if I might have to duck behind a building to pee against the alley wall of a village shop.

After a decidedly horrible lunch, we walked to Librairie Le Bluet, the bookstore Janine had read about in a Fodor guide (or some such fount of knowledge of all things French). It was an impressive place, a web of aisles twisting around the store on several levels, many of which were reachable only by spiral staircases. Alas, the touted English language section Janine read about was nowhere to be found. But, the shop had an intriguing wood carving, a stack of books, out front, making the visit worthwhile. Apparently, a huge tree that had once lived outside the bookstore had died and someone (quite the woodcarver) had fashioned a huge stack of books from its carcass.

On leaving the bookstore, we spied a public toilette near the place we had parked the car; I was thus spared the indignity of being arrested and jailed for public indecency.

During our return trip, the nice woman speaking to us from the GPS speaker routed us through a rather large town (around 12,000 people) in the Vaucluse department of the Provence Alpes-Côte d’Azur region. We stopped at a supermarket, a place called Simply, to buy some necessary supplies: toilet paper, canned beans, canned tomato concentrate, ground beef, facial tissues, a tin of mackerel in white wine sauce, some radishes, some ground cumin, a small jar of sambal-oeleek, and so forth. On the way home from the book and grocery run, we saw a small army of gendarmes blocking access to a road off to the right of a round-about; we breathed a sigh of relief that the blocked road was not our planned path home.

Once home, I emptied the dishwasher and Janine began working on the bag of cashews she bought at the supermarket. The rest of the crew arrived home shortly thereafter, whereupon we collectively feasted on smoked pork loin, cheese, olives, baguettes, and so forth, accompanied by (or following) a bit of pastis and/or wine.

I think I am 170 pounds heavier now than when I arrived in France on May 28. I will address this matter in due course; after we get home.

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Yes, I’m happy. Why do you ask?

This is what a happy man looks like. So, if you do not look like this,logic tells me you’re not a happy man. That, my friends, is irrefutable logic. image

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Hen Peckery

The pizza is not what I expected. But that’s all right. I had no expectations about pizza. Indeed, I had no plans to eat pizza. But the time and the place and the menu conspired to place pizza before me. And so I ate. The Marguerita pizza was unlike any other I’ve had; not particularly bad, but not something for which I will clamor in the future. The other pizza, I forget what it was called, was decent, but not memorable. The water and wine helped. Two pizzas, shared by three of us, proved sufficient. Rick Steves said nice things about the restaurant, which is in a square near the Arles arena. But I cannot recall the restaurant’s name. No matter; I doubt I’ll return.

Ah, you’ll want to remember this, which I learned a few days ago: St. George is the patron saint of horsemen, known as gardians around these parts…or, at least, in the Camargue. Let me tell you, the Camargue was an unexpected delight, what with the horses, the bulls, the pink flamingoes, and the topography of South Texas and the Gulf coast. The Camargue horse, white and powerful and gentle, are known to anticipate the movements of black bulls even before the bull thinks about moving. Magical, yes?

No one knows why Van Go0gh stopped in Arles. There’s speculation, of course, because that’s what people do. But we know he did. I suspect it was the amphitheater; if I had been Vincent Van Gogh (and who’s to say I was not?), that’s why I would have stopped here. That, or the light or the wine. The sky here, that is the light, is glorious blue, the blue one associates with Arles. I also associate Marie Flore and Joan Baez with Arles, but that’s just musical memory talking.

Today, we walk and wander more. And eat. And drink wine. Because that is what one does in Arles, especially in the days before moving on to villages outside of Avignon.

I considered bringing my notebook computer with me so I could blog more easily, but I did not. So, this hen peck of a note must do for now, until my finger consents to more pecking.

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A Different Perspective

Television news in Europe differs from U.S. television news in many ways. It’s not just the language, but there’s that, of course. Aside from that, there’s the unvarnished stories, the facts clear and undistorted by concerns about upsetting sensitive viewers. The world, in its ugliness and horror and agonizing beauty, is presented for all to see. There’s no careful scrubbing of unpleasant reality, at least not that I’ve seen. Reality is presented as reality. Fearful possibilities do not fall under the skillful surgical knives of cosmetic editors, trained to carve away reality too brutal to see. It’s all there. Here, the prospect of horror is not an abstract concept of something that might happen somewhere else; it’s real, it’s here, it’s actual. Amid the glorious landscapes and fabulous buildings older than even the seeds of our democracy, there exists reality we try hard not to see. I suppose that, once seen, it’s impossible to unsee.

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Tangled Dreamworks

I had a series of bizarre dreams last night. In one, my friend who bought my old pickup from me came to visit. In the dream, I lived in an old mid-century bungalow in a sad state of disrepair. In front of the place, an old concrete pad, much wider than a driveway, took up most of the front yard. My friend drove up in the old pickup, it’s fenders dented, a door missing, and it’s two left tires shredded and burned. He asked if he could park it there while it was being repaired. I asked what happened; he replied that a tractor mowing a burning field had swerved in front of him. “It wasn’t my fault, but they’re trying to arrest me for it,” he said.

Somehow, that dream morphed into a dream in which my sister-in-law welcomed me home with a big hug, telling me with some excitement that she had bought a tractor for me while I was away. I looked in the direction she pointed and saw an old, smoke-stained tractor that had a piece of green fender, like a piece of the old truck, jammed between its front wheel and its mid-section. Then I kissed her; but when I pulled back, it was not her; in her place was a co-worker from my years in Chicago.

The next part of the dream, or maybe it was earlier, I listened to a young couple explain their investments in bankrupt commercial properties. I asked whether I could invest with them and they just rolled their eyes and began laughing in snorts, like donkeys.

This tangled assortment of dreams ended with my sister-in-law meeting me at an Amtrak station in Nebraska; I don’t know how I knew it was Nebraska, nor why I was there. She met me there with a stack of newspapers and said, I collected these for you while we were away.”

“While ‘we’ were away?”

“Yes, I was away, too,” she said.

And then I was awake, feeling the arthritis in my hands.

I showered, shaved, and got dressed. After my wife got up, we went downstairs, where we had a nice breakfast. I had espresso, soft-boiled eggs, cheese, and a slice of rolled ham, with a croissant. I could live in Arles, even if it meant having that tangled dream over and over.

 

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About Things on My Mind

Americans may be more inclined toward arrogance than most, but they do not hold the franchise. I have witnessed displays of American and French and British arrogance, along with non-specific Arab arrogance during our trip thus far. I mention those because I have witnessed displays of  American and British and French and non-specific Arab humility and compassion, as well.

What this tells me is this: in spite of our different languages and disparate cultural norms, we humans are more alike than we are different. That is a good thing for Paris and other parts of northern France and Germany, where horrific floods are putting people and property at grave risk. The reason it’s good is that, in my experience at least, people display their greatest compassion when they encounter others in need of rescue and recovery from powerful nature.

I understand Texas is having similar challenges. Even the most right-wing political beasts are not apt to deny help to people in such circumstances. Unless you happen to be Senator Cruz and his ilk.

We’re a wonderful, entertaining, enlightening time in France. Just being here makes me more conscious of the complexities of humanity.

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And Then…

After relaxing for awhile Sunday afternoon, the three of us (my wife, my sister, and I) headed out in search of dinner. We chose Tapas Café on Cours Mirabeau, a very busy boulevard packed with people, in spite of the fact that so many places are closed on Sunday. We shared plates of octopus, asparagus, salad, mussels, and bread, along with wine. It was excellent.

We got back to the hotel in time for a quick (hour and a half) French lesson, which left me almost as poor with the language as I started, but it was fun. Then, it was off to bed, in an unsuccessful attempt to get several hours sleep.

On Monday after a breakfast of truffles and eggs and croissants and fresh squeezed orange juice, we prepared for a day on the road. The coach picked us up and we drove through beautiful countryside with rolling hills and mountainous terrain. The trip took us by and through lots of great vineyards, beautiful trees, lovely birds, and brilliant scenery all around. Our first stop was Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, a twelfth century Romanesque monastery that is still active today and is famous for its breath-taking lavender fields and production of honey. The monastery is a beautiful collection of stone buildings; neither the church nor the adjoining cloister have decoration but are powerful in their un encumbered solemnity, with messages that encourage thought and reflection.

After we left the monastery, the coach, driven by a very nice guy named Noel, took us to an absolutely enchanting village, Roussillon. Roussillon , “red village,” is so named for the rich red pigments in the quarries nearby.  The coach dropped us at a point on the edge of the village and we all went our own way to explore. Janine and Libba and I had a nice lunch at a restaurant called Nina, nestled on the side of a mountain. A few others from our group sat nearby and we chatted over our meal. Fortified with food and wine, we went off to explore the village, which clings to the side of a mountain; it’s streets wind and dip in wild gyrations, revealing vistas of unimaginable beauty. It is filled with shops: pottery, clothing, leather, ice cream, restaurants, you name it. A church tucked away in a corner of the village beckons passers-by to peer inside for a moment of silent contemplation, away from the hustle and bustle of tourism and commerce. We capped our visit with ice cream cones, then boarded the coach and left for Lourmarin, the stomping ground of Peter Mayle. Though a quaint village, I preferred Roussillon. More sidewalk cafe people-watching, with wine, and then we headed back to the coach. On the way, we encountered a small group of donkeys that willingly approached us, close enough for good photos.

Back at the hotel, we rested for awhile, then joined the group for a short walk to a dive bar and betting parlor, where our tour leader introduced us to pastis. Then, more walking, this time to a restaurant called La Brocherie, where we had a hearty vegetable soup, lamb chops, and potatoes, accompanied, of course, by ample wine. During dinner, we enjoyed conversations with representatives of the  British American Institute, who will host an educational conversation on Thursday. The representatives included French, American, and German delegates, who were delightful conversationalists.

Back at the hotel, we had nightcaps with our tour leader and a couple of other members of our entourage before turning in around midnight.

I awoke before 5 again, unable to adjust to jet lag. After a quick shower, Janine and I went down for breakfast. Bacon, croissants, pain perdu (French toast), cheese, and nice rich espresso (tea for Janine). Today, we’re off to view the landscapes that inspired Paul Cézanne, see his studio, visit a place that served a short time as Pablo Picasso’s home and the place of his burial. More later, after the real experience!

 

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First Days, Aix-en-Provence.

The day began at 4:00 a.m., with a wake-up alarm and a shower, followed by a ride service to the airport. We learned, on arrival at the airport, that our transportation service accepts only cash and checks, no credit cards. Their website makes no mention of accepted modes of payment. Fortunately, I could cover the $75+ tip with cash I intended to convert to euros.

An astonishingly easy breeze through the TSA checkpoint (TSA precheck) gave us much time to eat and dawdle. Then, our flight to Atlanta, where we had a 3-hour layover. Delta’s odd inability to explain where the premium versus riff-raff check-in lines did no irreparable harm to our ability to check in for our flight to Amsterdam. Aside from noticing that the space between aisles had declined by about three inches since my last flight, there was no real issue. And we had a window and aisle seat in a 2-seat section of the row, so that was a boost. Two movies, a few word games, and an utterly unsuccessful attemt to sleep, punctuated by a couple of meals and snacks, we landed in Amsterdam just before 6 a.m., where we deplaned, walked the distance equivalent to two marathons to get through immigration and customs, and then waited for our flight to Marseilles.

In Marseilles, we got our bags in relatively short order, then went outside the secure area where our guide awaited. The bus driver led us to a small coach, where we waited for awhile before some more from our group joined us, and then the driver drove us to our hoten in Aix-en-Provence. Ourroom was not immediately ready, but it was not too long before we were given our keys and sent up to unpack, nap for a while, then shower and go back downstairs for a meet & greet, where we enjoyed a glass of champagne before we all walked to dinner at Restaurant Jardin Mazarin, where we had a fabulous meal including wonderful breads, foi gras with toast points and strawberry jam, guinnea fowl, tiramisu, wine…there may have been more, but that was enough.

After waling back to the hotel, my sister and I chatted while I had another glass of wine from the lobby honor bar. When I got upstairs, my wife was ready to go to sleep, as was I. In spite of having been sleep deprived, I was unable to sleep through the night, but got enogh to get me through the following day, which began with breakfast.

Breakfast was delightful, with croissants, champignons with rissoto, bacon, yoghurt with fruit, espresso, and a bit more I don’t recall. Then we walked around Aix-en-Provence for a few hours to get a lay of the land and see some intriguing architecture (and hear a history of Provence from our guide for the day, Pamela, who showed us an interesting slide show about Aix-en-Provence.

Then, it was off to lunch at Cafe de Verdun, where we enjoyed a wonderful salad of Provence, served with wine, of course. Thence, we were off to an exhibition of the impressionist art of Joseph Mallord WilliamTurner at the Hôtel de Caumont.

After viewing the exhibit, Janine and Libba and I walked along the Cour Mirabou, a spectacular tree-lined boulevard lined with shops and restaurants and vendors, where we stopped for wine and people watching.

After a walk in the rain back to the hotel, we rested for awhile in advance of dinner. More about that later. Later, I’ll post photos.

 

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Things to Think About

The next three weeks, more or less, promise opportunities for new experiences; diversity of thought, perspectives, and attitude. If I am the man I hope I am, I will absorb disparate viewpoints, treating them as the beacons of wisdom they might become. My appreciation for open-mindedness is anathema to some people, especially people running for President of the United States. And adherents of some of those people. As much as I value tolerance and broad-minded approachability, I find myself incapable of finding value and decency in people who assign value to others on the basis of units of self-serving productivity.

I may be naive; but I think there’s a huge and unappealing difference between European and American definitions of morality and values. I suppose the only way to explore that is to…well…explore that.

I’m not sure whether I’ll be posting here for a while. I hope to, but I cannot predict the availability of technological capacity, nor of intellectual capital.

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Her Leaving

Dirty dishes filled the sink to overflowing. The moist remains of milk and cereal clung to bowls and spoons on the counter top. Dried tomato sauce, a few brittle loops of spaghetti, the remnants of chicken drumsticks, and flaccid pieces of spongy broccoli stuck to the  saucers and plates piled on the dinette. Two plastic trash bags, both filled beyond capacity with kitchen waste, teetered dangerously against the end of a row of yellowing cabinets that once had been white.

When the apartment’s stench of rancid milk and rotting meat finally exceeded Strum Preston’s tolerance for squalor, he began cleaning. He raised the blinds for the first time in three weeks, opened the windows, filled the sink with soapy water, and let the dishes soak long enough to soften the caked-on food before rinsing them under a stream of hot water. Then, he emptied the sink, filled it again with fresh water and soap, and washed the sink full of dishes. He had to repeat the process four times to clean every dish littering the kitchen. He hauled the trash bags downstairs to the dumpster and then climbed back up to his third-story apartment.

Leaving the windows open while cleaning the place helped with the stench, but did not eliminate it, so he poked around under the sink until he found a can of Lysol Nutra air freshener. Myla would have gone nuts with this smell, Strum thought. The thought of his wife’s fastidiousness about the slightest offensive odor was a knife slicing into a fresh wound. Strum winced and tears welled in his eyes. He put the can on the counter and walked to the postage-stamp bathroom to get a tissue to blot his eyes. As he looked in the mirror, he flinched at seeing the dark circles under his eyes and the three-week growth of thin, patchy grey and white beard. Goddamn, I look like shit!

Myla’s decision to leave him three weeks earlier after twenty-four years of marriage for a man he’d never known about ripped Strum’s world in half. Her decision was a lightning bolt from a clear blue sky. When she told him the affair was in its eighth year, his legs buckled beneath him.

Strum thought she had seemed cold  and deliberate when she announced that she was leaving. Not brutal, not purposely causing him pain, but emotionless.

“I don’t need anything but a few clothes and personal effects,” Myla had said as she prepared to leave. “Steve has plenty of money to buy whatever we’ll need.”

After four months of unemployment, Strum did not have all the money he might need. Three weeks after Myla’s leaving, he awoke to the importance of finding  a job.

 

 

 

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Self-Made Dilemma

A week ago, I wrote about what I called an epiphany. I’ve been thinking about it (the epiphany, not what I wrote about it) ever since. During the course of my contemplation, I’ve stumbled across a number of questions that have no suitable answers. But that’s not unusual; most of my questions don’t lend themselves to suitable answers, thanks in no small part to the complicated nature of my personality. One question that’s been nagging at me for the past week is this: How can one even consider a path that, while exciting and frightening and deeply alluring, has the potential of causing great emotional distress for a loved one? Does the very fact that I am weighing a potential reward for me against the potential distress for my wife say something about me that I don’t want to know? Is the pernicious nature of my selfish dream an indicator of the quality of humanity lurking beneath my skin? I realize I may be making more of this dream (that is nothing more than whimsy at the moment) than it merits, but I also know it may be far more telling than I wish it were. A good man, my reasoning mind tells me, would not even entertain ideas that have the potential of causing distress or harm to a loved one. Only a deeply flawed man, a man who attempts to cover his blemishes with self-effacing questions, would permit the thoughts to cross his mind.

As I consider what I wrote above, it occurs to me that not even I, who wrote the paragraph, is clear on what I meant about the harm I might do. It’s this: if I were to pursue some sort of business venture, as last week I alluded I might like to do, the money I would need would come out of retirement funds that we might desperately need in the not-too-distant future. That would constitute the stress and harm. How could I do that? Am I out of my mind? Am I a brutal, inconsiderate pig for even giving the matter a second’s thought?

These are rhetorical questions, mind you, so you (whoever you are) need not answer them. I’m not even sure I am equipped to answer them. The solution to the dilemma is a huge and unexpected infusion of money; so often, that’s what solutions are.

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Fretting on the Fruit of Follicles

I asked Father Facebook (not to be confused with Father Google) whether I should let my hair continue to grow in spite of its annoying habit of getting in my eyes, thereby driving me crazy, or cut it. Fickle Father Facebook gave me answers ranging from “cut it” to “pigtails” to “braids” to “man bun.”  One or two responses suggested a clean shave; I am afraid to do that, as the science of phrenology might reveal latent criminality I have heretofore successfully—more or less—hidden from public view.

The absence of uniform advice leaves me in less of a quandary than I might have expected. Instead, it gives me reason to believe I must make up my own mind. That, in turn, suggests my self-determination quotient remains relatively high, especially for an old man with a history of quibbling with himself over meaningless trivia. So the decision is, as it always has been, mine. The decision was made early yesterday, even before I queried Father Facebook; I would have my hair cut, feathered to keep it out of my face, but remaining long. Yet, by beseeching Father Facebook for an answer, I gave myself an opportunity to reverse the decision. And so I did. As of this very moment, I have decided to allow my long locks to grow even longer. When the hair on the side of my head grows two or three more inches, it will be long enough to gather the entire mass of keratin into a tail of some sort. What I will do with it then is anyone’s guess.

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About My Tragedy

[This is pure fiction; nothing about it is real.]

Let me first say I do not know where I am. In a physical sense, I am not “here” nor “there,” but neither am I a “spirit” of some sort. In fact, I suppose I do not exist in any form, other than in my imagination, though how I have an imagination is beyond me. That having been said, I feel compelled to share my story. But let me caution you, my story is not one that will leave the reader inspired or fulfilled. Far from it.

They whispered about my suicide for years, wondering “what made him do it?” I have to admit, my suicide note didn’t offer a particularly good explanation. But how do you explain such overpowering depths of despondency? How do you translate a damaged emotion so monstrous it blocks out even the light of the sun? How do you explain despair so utterly consuming that you see no way to end it other than to take that final, irreversible step?

At any rate, my explanation was less than stellar, but by the time I reached that point, I didn’t think they could have understood, anyway. I mean, they didn’t ask me how I felt, how I really felt, all those years that preceded it. They didn’t engage me, explore me, attempt to root out the demons they must have known were lurking inside. Maybe embarrassment took hold, or maybe they felt I would not respond well to an inquisition or even a good-hearted effort to drag me out of the soup of depression. And perhaps I wouldn’t have responded well. But at least I would have known they cared enough to take a risk to help me. But they didn’t. I mean, I’m sure they cared, but they didn’t take the risk.

I should explain who they are. They are…were…my friends, Darren Pripman, Cheryl Otto, Lance Boardman, and Calvin Staples. They were, outside of work, the only people with whom I had any sort of social relationship. All of us were, in one way or another, outcasts. At least that’s we considered ourselves. It was a matter of perverse pride that we didn’t fit in with mainstream thinking.

Ultimately, I hung myself. I tied a noose around my neck, tied the other end of the rope to a sturdy railing on the highway overpass, and jumped off. It hurt like hell for a few moments, until I lost consciousness. I guess I died about the same time I became unconscious. I’m not sure about that. At some point, though, and it must have been just seconds thereafter, I remember being aware of the fact that I experiencing myself hanging from that bridge at four-thirty in the morning, though I wasn’t experiencing myself the way you’d expect. It was sort of other-worldy, like I was looking down on myself. It wasn’t quite that, though; let me think on it and maybe I can explain later.

Even at that hour, there was a fair amount of traffic. Several cars stopped a couple of hundred feet before they reached my body, dangling from the overpass. The people in the cars rushed toward me, but there was nothing they could do. I was already dead, for one thing, and my body was probably twenty feet above the ground, so they couldn’t reach me, anyway.

Since my suicide, I’ve been watching the people around me, listening to them. You know how you’ve wished you could hear  how people grieve about you after you’ve died? No, in fact you don’t wish that; trust me, you don’t. What I’ve heard since I died convinced me I should have committed suicide years ago; it would have made a lot of lives easier.

What I’m about to reveal to you cannot go any further, all right? I mean, seriously, you can’t tell anyone what I’m about to tell you. Are you willing to promise me that? If you won’t, I’ll just let things stand as they are, no problem. But if you’ll give me your solemn promise, I’ll tell you things that will curdle your soul. And some things that will bring tears to your eyes.

[WTF…accchh!]

 

 

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